Star-less Marc Jacobs shines at New York fashion week
Posted by Lucky on Feb 18, 2010
Muted colours and sequins were the order of the day at the Marc Jacobs show at New York fashion week. Photograph: Seth Wenig/Associated Press
“There are no celebrities at the show,” confirmed a spokesperson. For some fashion designers this would be tantamount to admitting they didn’t have the money to spend on guaranteeing a star-studded front row. But for the prince of fashion week, this was a statement on intent, as he presented his best collection in recent seasons.
It was to be a very different kind of catwalk show. The guest list was stripped back, and the event was live-streamed on the label’s website, allowing the legions of Jacobs’ fans to watch the show at the same time as industry insiders.
Robert Duffy, business partner and president of the label, had spent the last two weeks hyping the event on Twitter and was responding to the label’s fans directly, even up to the minute the show started. The designer continued this personal approach by ripping down the brown paper curtain around the structure that concealed the models as the show started.
This attempt to democratise the fashion show could have fallen flat, but for a talent such as Jacobs the tactic worked because the clothes were exceptional. Even the stage had a back-to-basics feel with cardboard covered walls and a plywood catwalk painted to look like cardboard.
A model wearing grey culottes and a grey cashmere jumper with a crossed-back detail opened the show to the strains of a remixed Over the Rainbow. Crocodile leather midi heels and ankle socks completed the look.
The colour palette was understated: creams, greys, and pastels. Skirts ended at a demure below the knee and jumpers were slightly shrunken. There were see-through plastic trenches, pea coats with jewelled buttons, vintage-looking velvet dresses, lingerie layers and sequinned knitwear. All design elements that Jacobs has touched on before, but the overall effect did not feel lazy or repetitive.
As for the bags, which Jacobs followers clamour for every season, this autumn they will be furry and no doubt shockingly expensive – just in case it was all getting a bit too inclusive.
source: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/16/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion
