Milan Men’s Fashion | A Passage to India
Posted by Administrator on Jun 25, 2009
MILAN — The word “colonial” is being bandied about here, with quite a few designers taking inspiration from the khakis, collarless shirts and tunics that are emblematic of that era.
Aquascutum’s collection presented in still life form, along with a preview of a great new campaign shot by Tim Walker, showed delicately tailored jackets and lightweight coats along with boldly printed nylon outerwear pieces in the style of Indian batik prints. The label’s designer, Graeme Fidler, also lifted a smart trench from the archives of 1957 with some tweaks to proportion and fabric. The result underscored why this house is ready for a Burberry-like renaissance.
Neil Barrett also took a trip abroad showing a variety of neutral color-blocked trench coats along with dhurrie-style pants (dhurrie is a coarse cotton or wool rug woven in India). Colonial-style cropped-sleeved jackets were shown with long layered tunic T-shirts and Raj-inspired prints in sleeveless shirts and pants for a contemporary take on this traditional look.
Donatella Versace gave the utilitarian style of the Foreign Legion and its cropped-sleeve jackets and collarless shirts — presented all in white — a distinctly glamorous jolt with ombred silk tunics in rich dark brown and navy. Some looks were even topped with a brimmed, back-flapped “Beau-Geste”-style cap.
Frida Giannini’s sexy nod to the 1977 movie “The Deep” featured neoprene leggings, scuba vests, mirrored aviator glasses and standout nylon color-blocked anoraks and jackets with a distinct gloss to them. Sharp white suits with bright graphic printed shirts were accented with period-perfect chunky white metal linked bracelets and chains.
In lieu of one of his typically high-production (and entertaining) runway shows, Alexander McQueen opted for a viewing of a movie by the fashion photographer David Sims that was as earnest as “Passage to India.” The collection, inspired not by the Colonial past but by the anguish of an artist, had the requisite paint smudges but also very cleverly printed and weathered tailored jackets and pleated cropped pants. The look book was nicely done, but I would have preferred to see the artistic clothing in action.
